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Food Fight
WRITTEN BY TAMARA GREGORY
PHOTO ASSISTANT ALEX SERRANO
MAKE-UP ARTIST MEGAN MCCARTHY
PHOTOGRAPHED BY MATT FUKUSHIMA
PHOTO ASSISTANT ANDY TEMPLETON
PHOTO SHOOT COORDINATOR BREANNE TOEPPER
It should come as no surprise that a constantly evolving metropolitan city like Long Beach is home to roughly 14,000 restaurants — everything from fast food, mom and pop diners, ethnic cafes, organic bistros, to five-star dining establishments. So, just how does a foodie go about choosing from such a long, diverse list? Ask an expert, of course. No, not a food critic, though they do provide a valuable service. At the end of the day, the smarter bet is to ask those who spend all day around food, those who can spot a fresh cut of meat a mile away, and — most importantly — those who make a living preparing meals for others.
Yes, that’s right — when you want to know the place to dine, ask a chef. Not just any chef, but an “owner-hyphen-chef” — an awardwinning chef, a chef with his very own saliera di formagi (that’s cheese cellar to those who flunked Italian). And, since one opinion is just that — one opinion — we decided to consult three chefs.

So, what happens when you get three passionate, talented chefs with different backgrounds and varying culinary influences together in one kitchen? A food fight breaks out. Okay, maybe not a full-blown, pie-in-theface, mashed-potatoes-up-nostril kind of a fight, but discovering one restaurant that they could all agree to attend on their rare night off, turned out to be impossible.

From the onset, our esteemed panel: Arthur Gonzalez, Tony Zervas, and Joseph Gotti, agreed on only two things. One, they are elated to see that Long Beach diners are willing to expand their palates beyond the standard fare. And two, that the “greening” of their kitchens is not only a priority, but a calling. Whether it’s no longer ordering Styrofoam products, installing energy-efficient light bulbs, serving locally grown produce or meats from sustainable farms, all three of these chefs are on a mission to be ecofriendly.

First up — CHEF ARTHUR GONZALEZ
His Story:
A Long Beach native born to a German mother and Mexican father. Add to that mix, his Filipino neighbors — with whom he spent a great deal of time while growing up — and it’s no wonder Gonzalez’s culinary style is hard to pin down (except to say its deliciously eclectic). The only panelist who did not attend culinary school, Gonzalez opted instead to learn the good old fashioned way — he got a job as a dishwasher, and clawed his way up from there. After working what he calls the “slop and plop” hotel circuit, he became the Chef de Cuisine at two of James Beard award-winner Eric DiStefano’s restaurants in Santa Fe, New Mexico. He has since been wooed away to Alamitos Bay, where he can now express his love for food one unique dinner at a time.

His Kitchen:
McKenna’s on the Bay, 190 N. Marina Dr.
562.342.9411 $$$

Known for its fine waterfront dining, outdoor fire pit (which is making a much-requested return appearance) organic steaks, and immensely fresh seafood. Chef Gonzalez serves only certified humane raised and handled meats and environmentally sound seasonal fish. Don’t leave without sampling his Porcini dusted day boat scallops, with black sesame spaetzel (it’s a German thing), tempura asparagus and truffle oil. It’s worth noting that Gonzalez is also one of the few chefs in town daring enough to offer a pan seared foie gras on his menu.

His Picks:
Since he works in an upscale dining venue, he prefers to dine in relaxed, casual environments, where he can wear shorts and flip-flops and enjoy simple meals, cooked with no more than five ingredients, much like our grandmothers used to make.

SUNNIN LEBANESE CAFÉ,
5110 E. Second St. 562.433.9000 $$
Chef Gonzalez recommends the chicken shawarma (marinated layers of tender chicken cooked on a vertical broiler) and the hommos (chick peas, garlic, lemon juice).

MINK QUAN THAI, 2821 E. Anaheim St. 565.439.3008 $$
Extremely casual, almost diner-style. Chef Gonzalez recommends the seafood soup and their fried beef jerky.



Next to weigh in — CHEF TONY ZERVAS
His story:
A Golden Scepter award winner four years running (a restaurant writer’s award), Zervas graduated from Baltimore International Culinary College in 1995. From there, he went on to work in many restaurants including baking pastries at Twin Palms and serving as head chef at an opera house in Switzerland for a year, before deciding to open his own restaurant in downtown Long Beach.

His Kitchen:
Bouchees Bistro, 515 Long Beach Blvd.
562.951.8221 $$

Accolades aplenty have been showered on this modern-day diner. His burgers were recently voted the best in Long Beach. Created to serve gourmet casual meals with premium ingredients that showcase Zervas’ contemporary American culinary style. Be sure to try the ahi tuna and avocado sliders with spicy chili garlic sauce, and his parmesan and herb French fries. Be it the fries or the sliders, consider yourself superhuman if you can eat just one.

His picks:
Serving up burgers and fries — albeit gourmet ones — all day long, when time permits, Chef Zervas prefers to get dressed up and be catered to in high style.

SKY ROOM, 40 S. Locust Ave.
562.983.2703 $$$$
A long-preferred destination for anyone craving delectable food while enjoying a breathtaking view of the Pacific coast, the Sky Room is a Long Beach landmark. Chef Zervas recommends ordering a dozen oysters and any bottle of red they have on menu. “They have one of the best wine selections in town.”



Last but not least — CHEF JOSEPH GOTTI
His Story:
With a name like Gotti, you’d expect him to be a husky Italian who felt compelled to go into the family business — which he is — but he’s also a big softie who will go to any lengths to help a guest pull off the perfect marriage proposal, even if means cooking totally off-menu. The son of a restaurant owner, Gotti is a graduate of the Westlake Culinary Institute located right here in Southern California. He worked at both The Water Grill and Providence in Los Angeles, as well as La Toque in Napa Valley. In 2007, he won the Patina Restaurant Group’s Chef of the Year award.

His Kitchen:
Ristorante daVinci, 2801 E. Spring St. #300
562.685.8111 $$$$

Stylish Italian fare served in the most unique location — overlooking the Long Beach Airport. Stop in for a flight of fine wines before taking a helicopter flight above the city lights and picturesque coastline. Once back on the ground, be sure to order one of Gotti’s signature pastas. The summer corn tortelloni is a surefire hit, but since Gotti changes his menu often based upon what ingredients are available and in season — just like Forrest Gump’s box of chocolates — you never know what you might get.

“I try to enrich the lives of everyone who walks through my doors, and serving only the freshest food is part of that commitment.”

His Picks:
Chef Gotti prides himself on mostly serving food that is grown locally. For that reason, he visits local farmers markets two to three times a week, sampling anything and everything he can get his hands on. Since he works pretty much seven days a week, Gotti doesn’t often get the chance to dine away from his restaurant, but he swears that a true foodie won’t be disappointed by time spent at a good farmers market.

FARMERS MARKET, 400 E. First St.
Open Saturdays 9 a.m. – 2 p.m.

BENLEY VIETNAMESE KITCHEN,
8191 E. Wardlow Rd. 562.596.8130 $$
Perhaps not the best location, but once you enter the doors, you’ll feel like you’ve entered a posh Saigon cafe. It’s a limited menu, so Chef Gotti recommends the house salad served with cucumbers, carrots, toasted garlic, sweet peppery chiles and a hint of mint and their taste of pho.



Bottom line — all three chefs do agree that no matter your budget, your mood, your diet restrictions, there is a place somewhere within the city limits that will satisfy your hunger and satiate your palate. With over 14,000 places to choose from, the Long Beach dining scene is your oyster.


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